本文主要研究内容
作者刘璐（2019）在《东晋文人的服饰意识》一文中研究指出：古人讲究“服之要衷”,在中国古代,服饰除具有蔽体保暖的基本功用之外,还被儒家纳入宗法礼制体系,成为夯实封建等级制度和人伦教化的工具。文人作为特殊的社会群体,他们渗透到社会的各个阶层,上至王公贵族,下至寒门隐士,都有他们的身影。故而,文人群体的穿着打扮深受时代风尚的影响,又在一定程度上引领了服饰风尚。自晋元帝司马睿始建,至刘裕废晋安帝司马德文,东晋王朝共存百余年间,偏安江南的东晋文人在服饰追求上展现了迥异前代的审美特色,体现出鲜明的服饰意识。本文对东晋文人服饰背景、服饰现状进行了细致的梳理,并突出东晋文人在特定的社会背景、思想文化以及经济条件下,其独特的服饰意识和服饰文学观。论文共分五节。绪论部分主要解决两个问题:第一,概述本文的选题意义。首先,东晋是一个文学作品与服饰发展都十分繁荣的朝代。魏晋时期,战乱不断,王朝更迭频繁,人们的礼法观念变得淡薄,在儒、玄、佛思想的缠揉下,开始追求不受传统束缚的穿着方式,加之北方胡服传入江左,襦、袴、帽、帻等种类纷繁,东晋服饰发展十分繁荣。其次,关于“东晋文人服饰意识”的研究还比较薄弱,未见成体系的论著。目前学界对于东晋服饰的研究,主要集中在历史学与文化学领域。第二,概述建国前后学界对“东晋文人服饰”选题的相关研究现状,为本文的研究重点提供突破方向。第一章探讨东晋文人的服饰背景与服饰来源。首先,第一节论述了东晋文人服饰所处的时代特征及文化背景,得出了东晋文人服饰具有复杂性、流行性和异变性的特点。政治环境的纷乱不断与人们礼法观念变得淡薄决定了东晋文人服饰的复杂性。同时,门阀士族的绝对话语权也是东晋文人服饰愈加复杂的作用力之一。东晋经济的相对稳定使东晋文人服饰具有流行性的特点,复杂的思想文化决定了东晋文人服饰的异变性,出现崇尚“白色”、以怪异装扮为美和大兴“裸袒之风”等审美态度上的异变。第二节分析东晋文人日常布帛和配饰的来源。东晋文人服饰主要来自于家庭纺织、官俸收入、商业贸易以及亲友的互赠。东晋干宝《搜神记》中记录了多则有关买卖布匹鞋履的志怪小说;《晋诗》《全晋文》亦收录了多则东晋文人在亲友之间互赠皮裘、布帛、如意、麈尾的文学作品。第二章分别讨论了“高门士族文人群体”“寒门、隐士文人群体”以及“僧侣、方士文人群体”三类文人的服饰现状及服饰态度。高门士族文人是东晋文人的主体,他们大多生活优渥,衣食无忧,思想上根植于儒家家学传统,又不同程度地受到南渡北方文人带来的清谈影响,走向“极重服饰”和“极轻服饰”的两种极端。如“披鹤氅羽衣”“执麈尾羽扇”体现出他们重视服饰装扮的态度,而“改冠易巾”“任性裸袒”又挖掘出他们轻视服饰的一面。相比之下,寒门、隐士文人和僧侣、方士文人的衣着要质朴得多,他们以“巾”“褐”为主要日常装扮,经常还会因经济条件而陷入“褴褛茅檐下”境况。僧侣和方士文人由于特殊的宗教信仰,其服饰也体现出了一定宗教特色,僧侣文人以本土化的“袈裟”法服保暖避寒,对于服饰的颜色区分有着严苛的要求。而方士文人不以俗世服装为意,向往登仙后的“金车羽衣”。第三章是本文的核心,东晋文人的服饰现状一定程度上集中反映了东晋文人的各种服饰意识。如丧服制度延续魏晋“缘情制礼”的服饰意识,居丧时的衣服、饮食等方面极尽艰苦的“身丧”孝子难以受到称赞,而礼仪不备却“哀毁骨立”的“心丧”表现受到推崇。同时,东晋文人和思想家对于“名教”与“自然”之争也波延到服饰领域,有对裸袒行为痴迷放纵的“江左八达”,也有对此风严厉批判的名教人士乐广、戴逵等。放达的更进一步便是服妖,东晋文学作品中多次出现“服妖”情节,并与谶纬学说互相印证,其中对“左衽”胡服的批判体现了东晋文人思想中的的夷夏意识。东晋文学作品中还经常出现对女性服饰的制约,这与东晋社会中“女扮男装”“女装男化”以及“男扮女装”等违礼现象的出现有一定的关系,也反映了时人对礼法、规俗等外在价值藩篱的超越。第四章则探究东晋文人服饰意识对文学作品的影响。在志怪小说作品中,服饰在东晋时期的志怪小说中经常充当情节的关键线索,裙、巾、襦、帕、履等都可以成为触发重要故事情节的道具。由于服饰渗透到人物品评的方方面面,魏晋文人在“神女赋”等以女性形象为主的作品中,逐渐略写“神女”容貌形体,详写服饰风度,艺术特点显示出从“重形似”到“尚神似”的演变,而这一进程在东晋时期陶渊明的《闲情赋》中基本完成。到南朝时期,文人辞赋作品又热衷于大量描摹女性具体形貌,轮回于“重形似”的演进方向。本文的最后附“东晋文人服饰文学勾陈表”,以衣裳、首服、足服、佩饰四部分制作表格,每一部分以服饰元素为关键词对东晋文学作品和史料进行整理分类。
Abstract
gu ren jiang jiu “fu zhi yao zhong ”,zai zhong guo gu dai ,fu shi chu ju you bi ti bao nuan de ji ben gong yong zhi wai ,hai bei ru jia na ru zong fa li zhi ti ji ,cheng wei ben shi feng jian deng ji zhi du he ren lun jiao hua de gong ju 。wen ren zuo wei te shu de she hui qun ti ,ta men shen tou dao she hui de ge ge jie ceng ,shang zhi wang gong gui zu ,xia zhi han men yin shi ,dou you ta men de shen ying 。gu er ,wen ren qun ti de chuan zhao da ban shen shou shi dai feng shang de ying xiang ,you zai yi ding cheng du shang yin ling le fu shi feng shang 。zi jin yuan di si ma rui shi jian ,zhi liu yu fei jin an di si ma de wen ,dong jin wang chao gong cun bai yu nian jian ,pian an jiang na de dong jin wen ren zai fu shi zhui qiu shang zhan xian le jiong yi qian dai de shen mei te se ,ti xian chu xian ming de fu shi yi shi 。ben wen dui dong jin wen ren fu shi bei jing 、fu shi xian zhuang jin hang le xi zhi de shu li ,bing tu chu dong jin wen ren zai te ding de she hui bei jing 、sai xiang wen hua yi ji jing ji tiao jian xia ,ji du te de fu shi yi shi he fu shi wen xue guan 。lun wen gong fen wu jie 。xu lun bu fen zhu yao jie jue liang ge wen ti :di yi ,gai shu ben wen de shua ti yi yi 。shou xian ,dong jin shi yi ge wen xue zuo pin yu fu shi fa zhan dou shi fen fan rong de chao dai 。wei jin shi ji ,zhan luan bu duan ,wang chao geng die pin fan ,ren men de li fa guan nian bian de dan bao ,zai ru 、xuan 、fo sai xiang de chan rou xia ,kai shi zhui qiu bu shou chuan tong shu fu de chuan zhao fang shi ,jia zhi bei fang hu fu chuan ru jiang zuo ,ru 、ku 、mao 、ze deng chong lei fen fan ,dong jin fu shi fa zhan shi fen fan rong 。ji ci ,guan yu “dong jin wen ren fu shi yi shi ”de yan jiu hai bi jiao bao ruo ,wei jian cheng ti ji de lun zhe 。mu qian xue jie dui yu dong jin fu shi de yan jiu ,zhu yao ji zhong zai li shi xue yu wen hua xue ling yu 。di er ,gai shu jian guo qian hou xue jie dui “dong jin wen ren fu shi ”shua ti de xiang guan yan jiu xian zhuang ,wei ben wen de yan jiu chong dian di gong tu po fang xiang 。di yi zhang tan tao dong jin wen ren de fu shi bei jing yu fu shi lai yuan 。shou xian ,di yi jie lun shu le dong jin wen ren fu shi suo chu de shi dai te zheng ji wen hua bei jing ,de chu le dong jin wen ren fu shi ju you fu za xing 、liu hang xing he yi bian xing de te dian 。zheng zhi huan jing de fen luan bu duan yu ren men li fa guan nian bian de dan bao jue ding le dong jin wen ren fu shi de fu za xing 。tong shi ,men fa shi zu de jue dui hua yu quan ye shi dong jin wen ren fu shi yu jia fu za de zuo yong li zhi yi 。dong jin jing ji de xiang dui wen ding shi dong jin wen ren fu shi ju you liu hang xing de te dian ,fu za de sai xiang wen hua jue ding le dong jin wen ren fu shi de yi bian xing ,chu xian chong shang “bai se ”、yi guai yi zhuang ban wei mei he da xing “luo tan zhi feng ”deng shen mei tai du shang de yi bian 。di er jie fen xi dong jin wen ren ri chang bu bo he pei shi de lai yuan 。dong jin wen ren fu shi zhu yao lai zi yu jia ting fang zhi 、guan feng shou ru 、shang ye mao yi yi ji qin you de hu zeng 。dong jin gan bao 《sou shen ji 》zhong ji lu le duo ze you guan mai mai bu pi xie lv de zhi guai xiao shui ;《jin shi 》《quan jin wen 》yi shou lu le duo ze dong jin wen ren zai qin you zhi jian hu zeng pi qiu 、bu bo 、ru yi 、zhu wei de wen xue zuo pin 。di er zhang fen bie tao lun le “gao men shi zu wen ren qun ti ”“han men 、yin shi wen ren qun ti ”yi ji “seng lv 、fang shi wen ren qun ti ”san lei wen ren de fu shi xian zhuang ji fu shi tai du 。gao men shi zu wen ren shi dong jin wen ren de zhu ti ,ta men da duo sheng huo you wo ,yi shi mo you ,sai xiang shang gen zhi yu ru jia jia xue chuan tong ,you bu tong cheng du de shou dao na du bei fang wen ren dai lai de qing tan ying xiang ,zou xiang “ji chong fu shi ”he “ji qing fu shi ”de liang chong ji duan 。ru “pi he chang yu yi ”“zhi zhu wei yu shan ”ti xian chu ta men chong shi fu shi zhuang ban de tai du ,er “gai guan yi jin ”“ren xing luo tan ”you wa jue chu ta men qing shi fu shi de yi mian 。xiang bi zhi xia ,han men 、yin shi wen ren he seng lv 、fang shi wen ren de yi zhao yao zhi piao de duo ,ta men yi “jin ”“he ”wei zhu yao ri chang zhuang ban ,jing chang hai hui yin jing ji tiao jian er xian ru “lan lv mao yan xia ”jing kuang 。seng lv he fang shi wen ren you yu te shu de zong jiao xin yang ,ji fu shi ye ti xian chu le yi ding zong jiao te se ,seng lv wen ren yi ben tu hua de “jia sha ”fa fu bao nuan bi han ,dui yu fu shi de yan se ou fen you zhao yan ke de yao qiu 。er fang shi wen ren bu yi su shi fu zhuang wei yi ,xiang wang deng xian hou de “jin che yu yi ”。di san zhang shi ben wen de he xin ,dong jin wen ren de fu shi xian zhuang yi ding cheng du shang ji zhong fan ying le dong jin wen ren de ge chong fu shi yi shi 。ru sang fu zhi du yan xu wei jin “yuan qing zhi li ”de fu shi yi shi ,ju sang shi de yi fu 、yin shi deng fang mian ji jin jian ku de “shen sang ”xiao zi nan yi shou dao chen zan ,er li yi bu bei que “ai hui gu li ”de “xin sang ”biao xian shou dao tui chong 。tong shi ,dong jin wen ren he sai xiang jia dui yu “ming jiao ”yu “zi ran ”zhi zheng ye bo yan dao fu shi ling yu ,you dui luo tan hang wei chi mi fang zong de “jiang zuo ba da ”,ye you dui ci feng yan li pi pan de ming jiao ren shi le an 、dai kui deng 。fang da de geng jin yi bu bian shi fu yao ,dong jin wen xue zuo pin zhong duo ci chu xian “fu yao ”qing jie ,bing yu chen wei xue shui hu xiang yin zheng ,ji zhong dui “zuo ren ”hu fu de pi pan ti xian le dong jin wen ren sai xiang zhong de de yi xia yi shi 。dong jin wen xue zuo pin zhong hai jing chang chu xian dui nv xing fu shi de zhi yao ,zhe yu dong jin she hui zhong “nv ban nan zhuang ”“nv zhuang nan hua ”yi ji “nan ban nv zhuang ”deng wei li xian xiang de chu xian you yi ding de guan ji ,ye fan ying le shi ren dui li fa 、gui su deng wai zai jia zhi fan li de chao yue 。di si zhang ze tan jiu dong jin wen ren fu shi yi shi dui wen xue zuo pin de ying xiang 。zai zhi guai xiao shui zuo pin zhong ,fu shi zai dong jin shi ji de zhi guai xiao shui zhong jing chang chong dang qing jie de guan jian xian suo ,qun 、jin 、ru 、pa 、lv deng dou ke yi cheng wei chu fa chong yao gu shi qing jie de dao ju 。you yu fu shi shen tou dao ren wu pin ping de fang fang mian mian ,wei jin wen ren zai “shen nv fu ”deng yi nv xing xing xiang wei zhu de zuo pin zhong ,zhu jian lve xie “shen nv ”rong mao xing ti ,xiang xie fu shi feng du ,yi shu te dian xian shi chu cong “chong xing shi ”dao “shang shen shi ”de yan bian ,er zhe yi jin cheng zai dong jin shi ji tao yuan ming de 《xian qing fu 》zhong ji ben wan cheng 。dao na chao shi ji ,wen ren ci fu zuo pin you re zhong yu da liang miao mo nv xing ju ti xing mao ,lun hui yu “chong xing shi ”de yan jin fang xiang 。ben wen de zui hou fu “dong jin wen ren fu shi wen xue gou chen biao ”,yi yi chang 、shou fu 、zu fu 、pei shi si bu fen zhi zuo biao ge ,mei yi bu fen yi fu shi yuan su wei guan jian ci dui dong jin wen xue zuo pin he shi liao jin hang zheng li fen lei 。
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论文详细介绍
论文作者分别是来自山东大学的刘璐，发表于刊物山东大学2019-07-16论文，是一篇关于东晋论文,文人论文,服饰意识论文,陶渊明论文,山东大学2019-07-16论文的文章。本文可供学术参考使用，各位学者可以免费参考阅读下载，文章观点不代表本站观点，资料来自山东大学2019-07-16论文网站，若本站收录的文献无意侵犯了您的著作版权，请联系我们删除。
标签：东晋论文; 文人论文; 服饰意识论文; 陶渊明论文; 山东大学2019-07-16论文;